A historic government dock at the end of Cousins Inlet in one of BC's most storied ghost towns. Ocean Falls was once a company town of 3,500; today fewer than 100 residents remain amid crumbling mills and rainforest. A popular stop on the Discovery Coast Passage.
Ocean Falls sits at the head of Cousins Inlet, a branch off Dean Channel in the heart of BC's Central Coast, reachable only by boat or floatplane. It is arguably the most hauntingly atmospheric stop on the Discovery Coast Passage -- a once-thriving company town of 3,500 people that was largely abandoned after its pulp mill closed in 1973 and is now slowly being reclaimed by the rainforest.
The government dock -- a floating public wharf managed by a resident wharfinger -- is in good shape and has room for six to eight cruising boats plus local fishing vessels. Tie-up side-to along the outer floats; the wharfinger typically makes rounds in the morning and afternoon to collect moorage fees. You can also pay at the yellow float house known as The Shack, which sits beside the loading ramp and doubles as a community hub with a book exchange, internet terminal, and seating. Shore power (20 and 30 amp) and unlimited fresh water are available -- the water is drawn from Link Lake through the town's original hydroelectric system and is exceptionally pure. There is no fuel dock and no pump-out. VHF 66A is the working channel. The dock phone is 250-289-3333.
The town's centrepiece is the Boralex hydroelectric dam, built in 1921 and still operational, now supplying power to Bella Bella, Shearwater, and surrounding communities. The decommissioned paper mill stretches along the waterfront -- an enormous, rust-streaked ruin that draws urban explorers and history buffs. The six-storey Martin Inn, built in 1947, still stands but is heavily deteriorated. At its peak, Ocean Falls had a hospital, bowling alley, golf course, dance hall, and an Olympic-size swimming pool whose competitive team sent seven athletes to the Olympics. The pool and most of those facilities have since been demolished.
Today a small Venezuelan family runs the Little Licker ice cream shop, the Firehouse Bakery, a meat freezer service, and a gift shop -- welcome surprises in such a remote location. A cryptocurrency mining operation and a fish hatchery now occupy parts of the former mill site. A part-time post office handles mail. Supplies arrive by weekly supply van from Bella Coola via ferry, and by barge.
Wind funnels hard through the valley from the northwest in unsettled weather -- have a stern spring line ready when docking. Crabbing off the pier is productive. Hiking trails lead to Link Lake, the old dam, and viewpoints above town. Wildlife in the surrounding inlet includes humpback whales, sea otters, bears, and wolves.
Fuel and shore power available at Ocean Falls Dock.
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