North of Cape Caution the chartered cruising fleet drops by 90 percent. The Central Coast — Rivers Inlet to Princess Royal Channel — is wild country with a handful of First Nations communities, working float plane stops, and one of the highest concentrations of grizzly bears on the planet. This is the country between the Broughtons and Southeast Alaska that most boaters either rush through or never see. The cruisers who slow down here tend to come back. The light at the head of any of these inlets at 9 p.m. in July is something you remember years later.
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