Past Seymour Narrows the recreational fleet thins, the mountains close in, and the cruising changes character. Johnstone Strait is the long, sometimes punishing reach north; the Broughton Archipelago east of it is a labyrinth of islands and inlets that the cruisers who love most love most. Resident orcas, grizzly sightings at the head of Knight Inlet, old First Nations sites at Mamalilaculla, and floating outpost marinas where you might be the only boat that week. The trip up here is the boundary between cruising-the-PNW and being a real northern coast boater.
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